Gutters collect the water. Downspouts and drainage decide where it ends up — and on Parker County clay, that decides what happens to your foundation.
A well-installed gutter that dumps its downspout right at the corner of the slab hasn't solved anything; it's concentrated a whole roof plane's worth of water on one spot. On expansive clay, that spot swells while the rest of the perimeter stays dry, and differential movement is exactly what cracks slabs, brick veneer and drywall. The downspout, the extension, and where the water finally goes are the part of the job most people never think about — and the part that protects the house.
Every downspout drains a section of gutter, and each one has a limit. A standard 2x3-inch downspout handles about 600 square feet of roof; a 3x4-inch downspout handles roughly 1,200. Long runs with a single downspout at one end are the classic overflow setup on Aledo's big new-construction rooflines. Our fixes:
The minimum. A splash block throws water 2 feet out; a hinged or rigid extension gets it 4 to 6 feet, which is the accepted minimum for foundation protection on level ground. We use hinged extensions on lawn edges so they flip up for mowing.
The right answer for most Aledo lots, and the one that keeps flowerbeds, walkways and patios dry. Each downspout connects through a debris catch to a buried 4-inch solid PVC or corrugated line that runs to daylight — a curb core, a swale, a creek easement, or a pop-up emitter at the low side of the yard. The trench is closed and the sod goes back, and from the street all you see is the downspout going into the ground.
Where a patio, pool deck or driveway ponds during a storm, a surface catch basin or a channel drain across a walkway ties into the same underground system, so the whole back yard drains through one outlet.
For gardeners we can set a downspout diverter into a rain barrel with an overflow that routes back to the drain when the barrel's full.
Our parent company, CertiPro Home Improvement, builds aluminum patio covers, screen rooms and pergolas across the west side of the Metroplex. Every solid-roof cover needs its own gutter and downspout, and it needs to tie into the house drainage — otherwise the cover simply moves the water problem 12 feet further into the yard. We design the gutter and drainage for our own covers, and we'll fix the drainage on covers someone else built.
At least 4 to 6 feet on flat lots, further if the yard slopes toward the house. A splash block gets you 2 feet. Extensions get you 4 to 6. An underground drain line gets the water all the way to the curb, a swale, or a pop-up emitter at the low side of the yard.
A low-profile drain outlet set flush in the lawn or bed at the end of a buried drain line. Water pressure lifts the lid, water discharges across the grass, and the lid closes when flow stops so it doesn't fill with debris or become a mower hazard.
Often, yes — as long as that system has capacity and an outlet. Tying roof water into an undersized French drain just floods it. We'll look at what's there and tell you.
Yes. Trenching, solid PVC or corrugated drain line, connections at each downspout, cleanouts where the run is long, and the emitter or curb outlet. We put the sod back.
Roof water carries leaves and grit, so we install a debris filter or catch basin at each downspout and use solid smooth-wall pipe (not perforated) so there's nothing for silt to catch on. Gutter guards upstream help a lot.
Call for a free on-site gutter estimate anywhere in Aledo or east Parker County. We measure every run, you get a firm written price — no pressure, no games.
Call (682) 290-2525